A Clean Boat is a Happy Boat!

I'm here in Loutro, one of the most beautiful places that I have ever visited. I have a lot to catch you up on from my adventures in the last two and a half days. I haven't been able to write because the places we have been are very remote and they are only accessible by boat or foot. Most of the towns are just one or two inns with a taverna attached to the inn. What a beautiful sight to see a coastline with no stores, businesses or anything! I am so glad that there is still untouched raw beauty in the world.

Two days ago:
We loaded up the kayaks on the trailor and drove first to an ancient Minoan palace called Festos (Tiff I think you should name your first born after that palace), and then headed to a National Park called the Samarian Gorge. On the road I had one of the best omlettes in my life. Then we all unloaded and started the trek. Matt, Deann and I headed down the gorge together and we had a blast telling stories and laughing the entire 7 hour, 13 mile, steep hike! We would pass kilometer signs that were written on stumps. It would say "K.M. 9" or something like that depending on the place you were in the hike. Well we had become a little loopy from walking for so long, one does get a little tired at times, and Deann looked at the millionth sign that we were passing, and for some reason she thought it was a grave stone. The rest of the hike was dedicated to poor K.M. who lost his or her life in the gorge.

At one point in the hike, we met up with DeTracy who is a travel writer (check out her stuff at about.com- Greece Visitors - it is all hers), and historian on Greece. She tells beautiful stories of the mythology of Greece. The Samarian Gorge is where one of Zeus' mountains (Gigilio) is located and it is also the setting of the Oddyssy (spelling?-I have been in the sun a lot). She was telling us these wonderful vivid stories about Zeus going over to Libya in the form of a beautiful white bull to entice the gorgeous Europa and when she sat on the bull, he rushed off into the sea and brought her over to Crete. She told me, Matt, and Deann about Zeus' birth and his grandfather Uranus. At the mention of this name, distiguished professor, Deann, begins to giggle profusely!!! She looks at me with a look like a fourteen year old boy trying to see if I think it is funny too! From then on, any picture we took we said, "One, Two, Three, Uranus!"

At the end of the 7 hour hike, the three of us had a decision to make, do we go to our hotel, or do the optional hike up to some ruins. We indoctrinated the motto for the trip, "Just say yes." It was getting dark and we were worried we would be stuck up on the mountain so we ran, yes ran, to the top of the ruins. When we got up there we were ecstatic, screaming shouts of joy as if we had just completed a marathon (which they both have done 3 times). From the ruins, we had the most beautiful view of the Mediterranean Sea and the little town that would be our destination. We set the timer on the camera and took a million pictures which I will try to upload tonight. It was truly a feeling of joy and accomplishment to have hiked for so long and to have made it to the top. They call us the "Bonus Ks" because when faced with the option, we choose to go for more kilometers.

That day was also the 4th of July and the guides had decorated our taverna with streamers, gave us red, white, and blue lais, noise makers and at the end of dinner (which was also Zach's birthday dinner) we had a sing-a-long with patriotic songs!

Yesterday:
We had gale force winds so kayaking in the morning was not an option. Most people took the ferry to our next destination, but for us "bonus k'ers", we decided to hike the 8 or 9 miles along the coast to Loutro. We took off from Agio Roumeli and stopped an 1 1/2 later at Agio Pavlos which is named for St. Paul because he was there (Samaria-get it) and there is a church build in 900AD that is named in his honor.

Most of us "fun hikers" sat at the taverna eating and drinking for about an hour, three super hardcore people took off to continue the hike. Our next stop was several hours away, and it was beautiful. Marmara. We swam, ate some more, Matt, the guides and I went cliff jumping and just had a blast. Again, Marmara is a place that has one taverna and is only accessible by foot or boat.

We, then, had to continue to hike to our next destination, Loutro. We started the hike at 9:30 am and didn't arrive until 8:45. 11 hours of hiking. I can barely move. Three stairs take about ten minutes now!

Dinner last night was the best. I think we were delirious from the sun and tiredness, but we just laughed the entire night long. At the end when we toasted our raki, I said, "To Uranus!" and we all burst out laughing before we could take the shot!

Then came the surprize...We got to do a night paddle! Ahhhh I was so excited! 11 of us went out at 11pm and paddled in the moonlight. I don't think I've done anything cooler or more beautiful than that. We made up a song on our way home, that may eventually be posted on northwestpassage.com. When we got back into our harbor, the guides started a water fight, I was keeping on the outskirts, until they surrounded me and bombarded me with water. No one came out dry!

The best compliment they gave me was this morning when we were launching. You know how I told you that a guide always gets in the water first and a guide always gets in the water last? Well they asked me if I would be the first one in the water and take the place of the first guide out. I had to make sure that those who launched after me stayed away from the ferry, kept moving to reduce the chance of sea sickness, and perform a rescue if necessary. I was truly honored with this small form of confidence in my paddling. They have not asked or let anyone else do that yet.

If you are still reading this, thank you! Like I said, I will try to post pictures tonight.

Love you all! Peace.